Welcome to the Black Hills

Mission

We continue to work to ensure that climbers have access on the public land here and enjoy a great working relationship with Custer State Park, Mount Rushmore National Monument, Black Hills National Forest (including the Norbeck and Black Elk Wilderness Area), and Devils Tower National Monument managers.

History

The BHCC was formed circa 1991 around the time the Access Fund was taking shape. Like the Access Fund, the BHCC came into being as a response to land managers growing awareness of rock climbing, and its impact on the public lands they manage. Bob Archbold was an early leader and former of this organization. Often time climbers fail to realize how easy it is for governmental land managers to deny access to rock climbing and the BHCC has given climbers a voice in many land manager issues concerning Black Hills climbing access.

How We Make a Difference

Trail maintenance

The Black Hills Climbers Coalition is affiliated with the Access Fund, which is a nonprofit dedicated to protecting climbing areas around the USA. A couple times a year the Access Fund has a Conservation Team come out to the Black Hills where they help us tackle a large trail restoration project. For a couple years, with the help of the Conservation Team, we have been restoring the Spires 1-3 trail. You can see our event from July 2019 on our past events page! We also hold trash clean ups and do small trail maintenance projects throughout the year around the Hills. Look at our calendar page for upcoming events for trail maintenance!

Events

The Black Hills Climbers Coalition put on different events throughout the years to fund raise and get the community involved in the sport of rock climbing. A couple of these events include: Pumpfest, a three day climbing festival with prizes, live music, games, and of course climbing in the beautiful Custer State Park area; Beans & Biners, a one day chili cookout where climbing takes place in the Rushmore area and chili is provided; Reel Rock Film Festival, a showing of the Reel Rock films and HUGE prize give aways from local and national vendors; and guest speakers bringing exciting stories and clinics to give our community inspiration to get out and push their limits climbing in the Black Hills.

Bolt & anchor repairs

Since sport climbing took off in the 1980s, bolts have become the norm, as permanent protection on crack-lacking rock faces all over the world. As the climbing bolts begin to age, the probability of bolt failure increases. Fortunately, with your help and donations, the BHCC has been replacing old/damaged bolts for over 20 years! You can check out our route repairs page to learn more about how we manage bolt and anchor repairs!

Climbing Ethics

No matter where you live and climb, new bolting is often a sticky point with land managers so if you want to put up new routes or maintain older routes, please contact that land manager and make sure you understand the rules for developing routes at that location. Failure to do so could easily jeopardize access for all climbers, and this will make you a very unpopular climber.

Mt. Rushmore National Memorial
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➢ Bolting and fixed anchors are allowed.
➢ The use of power drills is prohibited.
➢ Annual permits are issued for power drill use for route repair through the Black Hills Climbing Coalition.
➢ Pets are not allowed in the backcountry.
➢ Camping and open fires are not allowed.
➢ During special events portions of the climbing area are subject to closure.

Custer State Park
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➢ Bolting and fixed anchors are allowed.
➢ The use of power drills is prohibited.
➢ Annual permits are issued for power drill use for route repair through the Black Hills Climbing Coalition.
➢ Pets are allowed on leash.
➢ Camping and fires are only allowed in designated campgrounds.

Black Hills National Forest

*spearfish canyon, victoria canyon, falling rock*
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➢ Dispersed camping following LNT techniques is allowed with a 14 day limit. Open fires are not allowed.
➢ Bolting and fixed anchors are allowed.
➢ There are no restrictions or permitting processes for the use of power drills, assuming the user is adhering to all other Black Hills National Forest regulations and is not in the Black Elk Wilderness or Norbeck Wildlife Preserve.
➢ No pet restrictions except in wildlife harassment.

Black Elk Wilderness
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➢ Fixed anchors are allowed in the Black Elk Wilderness at this time.
➢ The use or possession of power drills is prohibited.
➢ Pets are allowed on leash or under strict voice control.