DELICACY BOULDERS

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Written by Allison Coin


 

Spearfish Canyon is best known for its stellar sport routes--beautiful streaked limestone sprinkled with pockets and crimpers and powerful climbing. But there’s a lesser-known gem in the form of an emerging network of cleaned boulders, showcasing the same pocket bliss as the area’s world-class routes.The majority of developed Spearfish Canyon boulders lay in the upper canyon under the Shadowlands, Delicacy, and Darkside crags. In between the creek and the crags, the boulders rest in a mossy splendor of shade that provides the area with slightly cooler temps than up on the walls above. In fact, we first cleaned and climbed dozens of new boulders in July and August of an especially warm summer. Boulders like the “The Ice Chest” indicate how conditions can feel more conducive to climbing at the boulders on a balmy summer day than the more humid air overhead.

Jamie Coin and Austen Erikson climb a warm-up boulder with a handful of fun problems at the Delicacy Boulders.

Jamie Coin and Austen Erikson climb a warm-up boulder with a handful of fun problems at the Delicacy Boulders.

 

The boulders can be accessed off of the Shadowlands trail or the Delicacy trail, and extend all the way north to the Hole in the Wall, near the Darkside crag.  The Delicacy Boulders, as they have come to be called, entail a variety of grades and styles, providing something for everyone. Some tasty slabs, some steep caves, and those iconic Canyon pockets make it a rewarding place to play. And the potential for development is huge-- come clean some boulders to add to the area!

 
Jamie Coin maneuvers the Leaning Corner Boulder, v6

Jamie Coin maneuvers the Leaning Corner Boulder, v6

Carl Gostola on a problem on the Red Rocket Boulder

Carl Gostola on a problem on the Red Rocket Boulder

Allison Coin climbs the crimp-ladder corridor problem, Vision Quest, v5

Allison Coin climbs the crimp-ladder corridor problem, Vision Quest, v5

Mikel Cronin on Smoke Break (v3) on the the Break a Leg Boulder

Mikel Cronin on Smoke Break (v3) on the the Break a Leg Boulder

Allison Coin enjoys one of the pristine slabs that garnish the area.

Allison Coin enjoys one of the pristine slabs that garnish the area.

 

Moreover, the Delicacy Boulders are a super good location for families with kids: fairly even ground, no poison ivy (just beds of moss galore) and a short hike make this an incredibly kid- friendly area!

 
Edan Coin pulling on gnarly two-finger pockets

Edan Coin pulling on gnarly two-finger pockets

 

The Delicacy Boulders are well-worth the visit, plus Spearfish Canyon has other clusters of boulders as well: the Latchstring boulders by Savoy house a handful of fantastic boulders, as do both the Bluesky and Mohican climbing areas. Mountain Project has information on quite a few area boulders, and you can add to the online beta as you discover it!