Minutes from 2009
Black Hills Climbing Coalition Meeting
Meeting Minutes from 10/29/09 held at 7pm at Dublin Square in Rapid City.
Attendees: Caleb Hansen, Rebecca Wold, Jay Erickson, Ron Williams, Ron Yahne, Becky Wagner, Jason McNabb and Adrienne Lindholm
Discussion of the New Wrinkle Rock Climbing Area Improvement Projects. Ron Yahne attended the meeting
with the Forest Service (FS) and National Park Service (NPS). Good discussion was held and as far as Ron
• was concerned most of it was great for climbers. The plan is to expand the parking area to 20 spaces. They
had suggested adding 4 camping pads which Ron agreed would be great. They suggested along the trail by
• the road and Ron suggested on the left side of the trail and closer to the parking area. They also wanted to
decrease erosion by placing belay pads at the base of Toy Boat and # 9 and close the trail that has washed
• by #9 and have the trail by Toy Boat as access to these climbs. It was also discussed to change the drainage
• by the Wrinkle Rock entrance so it would not drain onto the trail and change the drainage by Dykes Next Door.
• Back fill would be applied and the drainage changed to help decrease erosion in these areas. Concerns
• that Ron found were they planned to remove the parking along they Hwy but by removing this and adding a
• few more spaces in Wrinkle Rock we will still have a net decrease in parking spaces. They wanted to close
the parking on the Hwy for people crossing the Hwy at this spot, however Ron commented that people would
• cross from the parking lot behind the bathroom to the North Park/Chopping Block area. Behind the bathroom
is a blind corner and likely more of a safety concern for foot traffic in this area. Ron said they had not realized
• this and made notes of this. It was discussed and not passed to comment on dogs in the area. Concerns that
• were discussed and agreed upon by the coalition meeting (motion by Rebecca to send an email or letter in
• response to the previous meeting that Ron attended 2nd by Ron with unanimous vote to proceed with the letter)
included.
• 1. Overall BHCC is excited about the changes at Wrinkle Rock with few concerns to consider. 2. Parking lot –excellent but concerns of net decrease in parking if hwy is closed. • 3. Concerns of crossing to North Park/Chopping block by the bathroom and having a more dangerous spot
crossing the hwy
• 4. Tent pads are great however not near the hwy keep them back closer to the parking area and on the far
side of the trail away from the hwy.
• 5. Great to stop erosion by closing the one eroding trail by #9 (there will still be access from a different trail)
and placing belay pads
• 6. Great to change drainage near parking area trailhead and Dykes Next Door 7. Concerns of keeping maintenance of the Wrinkle Rock bathroom open. If it is not maintained where would
• you expect people to use the bathroom? Additionally when most climbers have been in the parking area, it is
• very common (almost daily when we are there) there are non climbers stopping to use the area and its facilities.
• High use area and concerns of not maintaining this bathroom especially so close to Mt Rushmore may leave a
negative impression on many visitors.
8. On pg 7 of 8 Under Other Management Issues there is some confusion on the statement of the use of non-motorized and motorized drilling. If there could be some clarification that would be great. We believe
• non-motorized drilling is allowed in most areas. Clarification of this is needed to ensure correct usage by the
BHCC.
• Ron Yahne is in charge of developing a letter to send and is the contact person from the BHCC on this topic.
• The trail from Wrinkle Rock parking to the kiosk is going to be handicap accessible and • Dr. Rebecca Wold an occupational therapist is offering to give free consultations.
• Rebecca is going to ask Tony from Turkey Graphics about some ideas for T-shirt logos.
• Discussion of a Holiday event was discussed and determined that Caleb would look into a pot luck with beer
and possible vide at the Athletic Center for Dec or Jan
Discussion of getting more inf about upcoming events and past events on the website. Jason will email a list
• of repaired routes to Eric to put on the website. Recent repairs are Dire Spire – new bolts and anchors, Ocean
Spray on Tiki – new bolts, and Existantial Angst – new anchors.
• It was moved by Becky to adjourn and second by Rebecca. Meeting Adjourned.
Black Hills Climbing Coalition Meeting Minutes
8/19/09 Dublin Square Rapid City, SD 7pm
Attendees: Bruce Junek, Rebecca Wold, Ron Yahne, Becky Wagner, Jason McNabb, Jay Erickson
Old Business:
July 15th 09 Bruce Junek, Jim Slichter, Ron Yahne, Becky Wagner, Lyle, Ron Williams, Josh Balt all checked
the coalition ropes for the Pump Fest.
New Business:
• Dawn Glanc slide show to occur Fri before beans and biners. Fri Sept 11th at the Fire house.
• Beans and Biners : Jay says ins is non profit is SD covered but not covered for court costs. TO set up a non
profit would cost up about 1500-2000 dollars/yr. Should use a release liability form with out one it shows liability.
• Discussion of release forms and posting signs that everyone is welcome to climb on coalition ropes but everyone
• must sign a waiver first. Jason made a motion to use liability waivers. You do not have to be a member to climb
• but you need to sign a waiver at each event. There is to be a central waiver signing spot and some other signs
• posted to let people know to sign a waiver prior to using coalition ropes. Seconded by Rebecca. Rebecca Wold
• to be the event promoter and Bruce to get the forms ready. Shawn said he would make chilli and coalition would
pay for products. Jason said he could help set up ropes and then work the table for awhile. Beans and Biners is
• to be a pot luck. TO start at 9am Sept 12th 09.
• Suggestion of a silent raffle to raise money for bolts – petzel could sponsor.
• Rebecca contact for BHCC t-shirts and tanks for girls. Goat on spire theme. She would look into cost on screen
and cost per shirt.
• Cronin may do a LaSportiva shoe dem at Beans and Biners.
Bruce discussed an outdoor convention in Spearfish – BH Pioneer Sun after Beans and Biners. Bruce, Ron or
• Jason to speak about climbing there.
Repairs Completed:
Not To Steep for My Lichen anchors and top 2 bolts
• 5.8 to the rt of Not To Steep added new anchors
• 5.10 to the left of Not To Steep replaced anchors
Need of Repair:
Anchors and 1 bolt on Dire Spire
• Anchors on top pitch of Garfield Goes to Washington
Ocean Spray in Custer State Park
• Motion to adjourn and 2nd.
Meeting was adjourned.
Black Hills Climbing Coalition Meeting Minutes
6/17/09 Held at Dublin Square
Attendees: Bruce Junek, Peter Lev, Shawn Nagel, Chris Spellmeyer, Caleb Hansen, Eric Hansen, Ron Yahne,
Jay Erickson, Brian Anderson
Joel’s Wife supplied a climbing waiver form for consideration for events. Discussion about whether this would help.
The general feeling was we still need insurance.
• Pin fest scheduled for July 18th. The question was raised if we wanted to do a cleanup? There are many trees down.
Suggestion that everyone bring gloves and help open trails.
• People needed to donate good ropes. Eric will put something on website and make up posters by July 1st.
Discussion for a workday in August at Far Downs.
List of Routes in need of repair:
Moonstone
Remove old anchors on Pluto’s Playground
Notes by Ron Yahne typed by Becky Wagner
Black Hills Climbing Coalition Meeting Minutes
5/27/09 Meeting held in Hill City 7pm social at Granite Sports and meeting followed at 8pm
Attendees: Bruce Junek, Jim Schlichter, Trent Schlichter, Rob Taylor, Gwen Brandhagen, Lindsay Stepheny,
Chris Spellmeyer, Ron William, Becky Wagner, Ron Yahne, Rebecca Wold, Shawn Callahan, Jim Syverson,
Susan Scheirbeck, Sue Schroeder, Joel Hagan, Matt Mieczkowich, Cheryl Meyer, Daryl Stisser, Eric Hansen
Old Business:
It has been decided that the member's is public knowledge. Information such as email addresses is only given
out for the members that oked theirs for publication.
New Business
• Website update: GOOD JOB ERIC! It is now up and running! The hope is to use the website for not only
• advertisement for our events but also current updates the morning of events on weather and such. Keenan Harvey photography class has been cancelled.
Treasurer's Report: Savings;$1360 Checking: $2557
Daryl with an insurance update: Since we are a professional organization Daryl suggests we get insurance even
for our gathering events with n comps. Cost estimate would be $2000 per year. This brought up a lot of
discussion on whether or not it is necessary and ideas of getting legal advise if it is necessary or what the consequences of not having insurance. Joel said he would see what he could find out from his wife an attorney.
Other ideas were possibly seeing if we could join with Tech for these events and have insurance through them.
• It was also proposed that we have a festival in town during the weekend we climb so maybe we can get some
city insurance. Ideas for generating more $ for insurance is increasing membership dues, making event dues
mandatory, having more auctions at our events, and asking for donations at our events.
• Pin Fest 3rd week of July: Trees are down everywhere! To many so Custer should move them but we should
• find out a time line for removal. Scott Malone is the contact person. 10 Pins area is a mess and hard to get to
• any climbs contact Lindsey Barneys boss's boss would be the best person to contact.
• The contact person for discussion on Wrinkle Rock Parking Lot was supposed to speak tonight but is absent-hopefully
he will be at the next meeting.
Climbers Coffee: July 4th (informal meeting in 1 month)
Informal Group gatherings Thurs nights at rushmore
Wed night at Falling rock
Dawn Glance Slide show around Beans and Biners has passed with a unanimous vote. She will charge $500 plus
• travel expenses. She should have sponsors to help with posters and advertisements. List of Routes in need of Repair:
Anchors - Top of Garfield
2nd bolt on Gossomer
Dire Spire - Anchors and 1 bolt
Evergreen - Jason has recon notes
2 Sex Routes - 2 anchors
Eddie Begoon's - Anchor
Black Hills Climbing Coalition Meeting Minutes
3/25/09 Held at the Chop House – Spearfish, SD
Attendees: Lance Lund, Chris Klinger, Brian, Joel, Toni, Mike Cronin, Ron Yahne, Becky Wagner, Lee Terveen, Tyrell, Melissa Hampton, Peter Lev, Susan Scheirbeck, Will Buckman, Eric Hansen, Jason Mc
Nabb, Jake, Caleb Hansen, Luke Kretchmar, Chris Spellmeyer, Will Busse, Rochelle, Jamie, Pam Gillespie, Terrrance, Jacey
• Announcements: Sat March 28th at the Forest Service Office on hwy 16 in Rapid City from 9-12 is a time you can voice your concerns with Rangers about the closure of some of the off roads including the one providing access to the VC.
• You can also find more inf on Mountain Project under SD then under VC. • Jason Mc Nabb and Mike Cronin attended the Travel Management Plan meeting last week about the different proposals for the trails systems. They are open for comment until May 4th-please send a letter to voice how it will affect climbing in the VC. Mike gave a hand out of a letter to use as a reference and another hand out on where to send your comments and information you may want to add to your letter. For more inf please contact Mike.
Old Business:
• Treasurers Report: Jim is not present to give an updated report.
• Website update: Eric has had trouble with the website and getting new software. He will look into contacting Brett who may have knowledge to help us get this in order.
• Daryl is not present to give us an update on insurance for an outdoor comp.
• Will Busse was voted to be in charge of looking into cleaning up trails in the Ten Pins and Cathedral Spires areas. Rochelle is to co-chair this project. We will ask Bruce to talk with the park system about how to help. If Bruce (not present) doesn’t want to do this Ron Yahne said he would.
• Melissa Hampton ( mjhampton@hotmail.com )said she would help with a climbing fest and chili feed. Shannon Toowmy sp? Stated in the past he would help too. Will Buckman said he would like to have a 3 hour work day at the Tower and then food and then climbing the 3rd week in Sept. We may be able to group all of these together at that time.
• It was brought up that the bolting committee and our co-chair has had a difficult time with communication with Rich, the head of the bolting committee. Multiple emails by the bolting committee and 2 phone calls from Caleb have not been returned. Bolting committee members stated that Rich does a great job and they would like to keep him in charge, however a more timely return of communication and more timely way of getting gear is needed.
• Mike Cronin brought up that he would like to bring a proposal to the next meeting about the groups thoughts for rap bolting with power drills and talking with the park system about a permit for doing so in the Custer State Park area. This brought up much heated discussion both for and against such a project. Discussion included illegal bolting that may be occurring, how a permit system my help and how this could increase the number of routes in this area and they could be regulated about what route get put in. Discussion for tradition and how doing this would be more of a burden on the park system and rangers. It was stated that rap bolting is legal at this time but power drilling is not. A motion was made by Caleb to allow Mike to bring a proposal to the next meeting and seconded by Toni. Many members stated comment for and against the acceptance of a proposal. This discussion caused much upheaval amongst members.
• Becky moved to adjourn and it was second by Lance.
• Note: an email was sent to the member list on 3-26-09 by Mike Cronin stating the with-drawl of his proposal due to the disturbance amongst members about the subject of power drills in the State Park.
Black Hills Climbing Coalition
Meeting 2/18/09 at Dublin Square-Rapid City, SD
Attendees: Phil, Steve, Bret, Ron Yahne, Ron Williams, Caleb, Jason McNabb, Eric Hansen, Jim, Sue, Becky, Mike,
Shawn, Rebecca K, Joel, Adam, Shannon
Old Business:
• Repair Kits: Recommended by the coalition for the repair committee to have the kits ready for use by April 1st .
• The repair committee needs input for repair routes. An attempt to ask at every meeting for any routes in need of
repair will be put on the agenda for upcoming meetings.
Voting Recap of new board members
New Business:
• Recommended a motion to add the Access Fund Representative (Daryl) and Membership Tracker/Promoter
• (Cheryl) to be added to the board. Discussion involved a low attendance at the meetings and very few available
• voters due to board members not always being able to vote. It was decided by a vote to just keep them as
current positions but not as official “board members”.
Treasurer Report: Jim: $1356 in savings and $2482 in checking.
• Daryl had sent an email for proposed changes to Mt Rushmore – contact Daryl or Wyss Associates
VC road closing: Mike has gotten support from some companies such as Black Diamond and Sportiva for
help with promoting keeping the access road open. Steve sits on the board for the off road riders program
• and will pass the inf on to them, maybe we can gets some added support from them . They will have a proposal
for the closing on the 27th. Comments can be given after that time. Please contact Mike Cronin for more info.
Website: Eric has been having issues with accessing our current website. It has been voted on in the past that
• Eric is oked to get new software because of the difficulties with the current website. Bret said he had access to
• new software so him and Eric will work out the best solution.
• Daryl is to comment on how we can get insurance for an outside comp.
Brainstormed for goals for 2009:
1. Educational Day: Self Rescue and Anchor Building
2. More regular climbing events: Devils Tower, Spearfish Canyon
3. Chili Feed
4. Trail Projects
5. Horseshoe Hell: 12 hours of climbing for a fundraiser
6. Tree removal around the Ten Pins
• Becky made a motion to start committees next month for goals we want to accomplish. All would be great but if
only some get organized, maybe the others will get done next year. Sue 2nd the motion. It passed by unanimous vote.
Benefits of membership: Involvement with the above goals, route repair, 15% off at Granite sports(just tell them
you are a member), voice for the climbing community
Next months meeting is proposed for Spearfish and is TBA, (likely Crow Creek Brewry or Sandfords)
• Steve had a motion to adjourn the meeting and it was 2nd by Rebecca.
Black Hills Climbing Coalition
1/21/09 Gas Light –Rockerville
Attendees: Jim, Eric Hansen, Susan, Chris, Caleb, Duane, Rich, Rebekah, Roger, Bruce, Brent, Mike, Shannon,
Jason McNabb, Ron Yahne, Aaron, Jason Lembert, Gwen, Lisa, and Becky
• Old Business: Bolting Committee met, discussed and it is the consensus of the group to see how “kits” with a set
amount of gear determined by the bolting committee will work for each of the bolting committee members of each
region of the repair areas. The routes in need of repair will be determined by the bolting committee group prior to
the repair season. The kits will be replenished on return of accurate paperwork of where each piece of hardware
was placed. It was the consensus of the group that paperwork is important for good relations with the landmanagers.
• The kits are on a trial basis and if found to not work smoothly another solution will be suggested. New Business:
• Each nominee for office had a chance to speak on their behalf.
Nominees are:
Chair: Bruce Junek and Brent Kertzman
Co-Chair: Caleb Hansen and Will Busse
Secretary: Becky Wagner
Treasurer: Jim Schlicter
Publicist: Eric Hansen
Member at Large: Ron Yahne, Peter Lev, and Mike Cronin
Voted by ballot and 4 proxy votes
2009 voted in board members are as follows:
Chair: Bruce Junek
Co-Chair: Caleb Hansen
Secretary: Becky Wagner
Treasurer: Jim Schlicter
Publicist: Eric Hansen
Members at Large: Ron Yahne and Mike Cronin
Bolting Update from Rich: Priority finding routes in need of repair, Goals: Accountability, Quality work and
Partnership with landmanagers.
Time table:
Establish list of routes at beginning of each year and prioritize them
Have an area lead person for each area: Rushmore and Custer
Late winter give hardware estimates needed for each kit
Hardware is approved through Bruce and Jim
Select route repair lists for each area
Process Hardware
Give a refresher training course for installing hardware
Perform route repairs through out the season
• TO replenish kit-need forms properly filled out with route inf and accountability for each piece of hardware used
End of year final report
Discussion and proposal by Rich on Retrobolting:
• Concerns with adding bolts to routes, Parks mandate preservation so there is some potential for controversy
and poor relations with the Parks, However Todd (our current contact with the park) has stated he is in favor of
• adding bolts if it decreases risk of harm to participants.
Rich proposed 2 options for retrobolting:
• Option 1: If there is bolting the same day as the recon 3 people on the bolting committee should be there to agree
• on the retrobolting. If the recon is done one day and drilling occurs another day it is only necessary to have 2 bolting
committee members input.
Option 2: Recon then post on website for comment
It was voted on and Option 1 Passed by majority vote.
Rich provided Repair Route lists for Custer and Rushmore areas. See Becky or Rich for the lists.
• Cheryl has been keeping a database of members and has been doing a great job of adding the new members to
the email database
• Donations: Philip Berggren made a $50 donation. Becky will send a thank-you to him and Mike Engel from last
year he donated $500.
Treasurer’s report: Year End: Checking: 2052.26 Savings:1355.17. Since then, The Andy Burr slide show netted
an additional $430
Pat Wyss would be a good contact for anyone interested in more information on the Mickelson/Rushmore Trial
Project-see Susan for details
• Mike Cronin commented again on access to the VC. It would be landlocked if they close rd 150 off Sheridan Lake Rd.
• There has been a proposal for closure then 45 days waiting period. We need to let them know why access through this
• road is so important. Mike will get inf on key points to Becky so she can email inf for all members to send inf to rally
why we need it left open.
Voted that the next meeting be held in Rapid City at Dublin square on WED. Feb 18th. Caleb will make sure all is ok
with Dublin Square.
Mike Cronin is working on a meeting in Spearfish in March. TBA
It was voted and passed that we charge $10 for the Peter Lev slide show on January 31st at School of Mines Campus
• EP Bld Rm 252 (New Location) and anyone interested gets a free membership for 2009 to the BHCC.